Kumaon Part 5 - Katarmal Sun Temple - Apr 2023

April 30, 2023

This is in continuation of the Kumaon experience. See other parts of this journey - part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4.

We had covered Dol Ashram, Jageshwar, Chitai and Almora so far. Our next destination was the Katarmal Sun temple 17km north of Almora. We had planned to stop at the Kosi river first and eat breakfast as it would be late by the time we reach the temple and there aren't that many places to eat after that. Kumaon isn't complete without its aloo ke gutke and rai ka raita. You can find them at the eateries by locals in the hills. The simplicity and hospitality of the locals never fails to amaze me. 

Aloo ke gutke and Pahadi rai ka raita

Katarmal Surya Temple

Most of us may have heard about the Sun temple of Konark but not about Katarmal. Katarmal is the second most significant sun temple in India. 

Katarmal temple is at the top of a hill but there has been a proper road to reach the temple in the recent years. There is a short hike through the staircase from the parking area. One can see some typical houses of the hills while climbing up to the temple. 

Village home on the way to Katarmal temple

The beauty of the temple is worth seeing. There wasn't any crowd at the temple, we were the only ones so it was quite calming to be there in the morning. Katarmal temple is also called badaditya temple and was built between 9th-13th century by Katyuri king Katarmalla of Kumaon. The main deity of the sun temple is Surya – called Vraddha Aditya (Old Sun God). 

There isn't much around the temple except a few houses owned by locals which makes it an even more peaceful place to spend time at. The view of the hilly landscape is mesmerizing around the temple. The temple is of national importance currently.

The temple is facing east and there are around 44 smaller temples along with the main temple. Most Kumaon temples are built using stones instead of bricks and it is hard to imagine the skill and the effort it would have taken to transport the material to the place and build the beauty. 

The temple is designed in a way that the rays of the sun fall directly on the deity on certain days. Since the main idol of 10th century was stolen, the wooden doors are kept at the National museum in Delhi. All remaining idols are kept in the main temple along with the Surya Dev idol from the 12th century. The Sun deity idol is in sitting position. 

The damage to the temple structure is clearly visible from the pictures. It's sad to see but the reality was in front of us. 

From Katarmal Sun Temple, our plan was to go straight to Someshwara and then to our native village, Nakot which is 10 km from Someshwara. More here.